Friday, 11 July 2014

Week 10.5

A work that aspires, however humbly, to the condition of art should carry its justification in every line...Art itself may be defined as a single-minded attempt to render the highest kind of justice to the visible universe, by bringing to light the truth, manifold and one, underlying its every aspect...My task which I am trying to achieve is, by the power of the written word to make you hear, to make you feel – it is, before all, to make you see...If I succeed, you shall find there according to your deserts: encouragement, consolation, fear, charm -all you demand – and, perhaps, also that glimpse of truth for which you have forgotten to ask”

All of this comes from the introduction to Joseph Conrad's rather unfortunately titled 'Nigger of the Narcissus', yet another nautical book, but one that is starting off with rather more energy than Melville manages (I have paused Moby Dick at chapter 86), while I try to finish this paper book, as there has been a rather dramatic change of events.

Due to the slow but incessant spread of Ebola here, the decision has been made not to send the next batch of volunteers to both Liberia and Sierra Leone, instead adding them to the Senegal and Togo groups. Which means that I am off to Senegal as well. In a bid to lighten my load somewhat, I have a week to finishing the Conrad anthology. And learn fluent French. One of those objectives is rather more likely.

With this being my penultimate blog from Sierra Leone, I shall continue to write what I had been planning on before getting the news yesterday.

(From the Awako Times)
As this newspaper editorial from last week shows, there is vocal defense and support for cultural practices that are decried by many western (and other African) countries. The realities of the harm, usefulness, or value is largely not mentioned, but rather just a rambling defense of a country's right to protect its own culture, and to be left alone in peace to do what it wants. Here a legacy of colonial and post-colonial NGO based interference, I have noticed similar attitudes in Japan, where, post-war, a sense of loss of control over how the country was run lead to the clinging onto of cultural practices that may otherwise have naturally been forgotten or replaced, namely whale hunting. By fighting to keep them however, in the face of international pressure and condemnation, these acts of defiance become patriotic and something to support. Just look at the UK's dealings with Europe – no one likes to be told how to govern one's own country. So FGM in Africa, just as whale hunting in Japan, or anti-gay laws in the US and Africa, or a women's ability to drive in Saudi Arabia, are all things that people are fighting to keep, in the name of 'culture', seemingly because the UN/NGOs/America doesn't like them. And it is something I find frankly laughable.

 (Looking down on Freetown from the University)

In a country where being homosexual is illegal (but thankfully not carrying the kinds of sentences that Uganda recently passed), it was with great surprise to meet a very camp, and openly gay professor last week, while visiting the premier University here. Perched on a central hill overlooking Freetown, the largely 1960's concrete campus offers some fantastic views of the city (rather better than the views of the campus, which is in sore need of some refurbishment), and was certainly worth the hike to get to.

A few more things I will write up for next week's blog, but, then, a new country! (And a new blog, as this one is rather dammed by its name)

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